MBM - Burda 06-2013#120 shirtdress
Reading the recent round of New Year’s sewing resolutions for 2017, the intention to sew from the blogger’s back issues of Burda was mentioned a few times. This is a resolution I definitely identify with.
I’ve intended to make this shirtdress, since I bought the June 2013 issue of Burda in Rome. So, like, 3-and-a-half years. And I’ve done it! Finally…
I really liked this shirtdress, especially the curved pockets. Here is the technical drawing. I added a centre back seam, for swayback adjustment purposes.
The fabric is a cotton poplin I bought at the Remnant Warehouse quite a while ago, specifically with this pattern in mind.
I cut a 40 bust and 42 waist and hip. Then I made a 1”FBA and a 1”full bicep adjustment. Then I added 12cm length, as ever with Burda.
|Mum, do that thing with your feet, says daughter-photographer.|
This was a fairly straightforward sew, but there were a few tricky new-to-me constructions, particularly around the collar. Having bought this in Rome, my issue is in Italian, naturally. So I got to practice my somewhat rusty Italian. Still, if you think Burda is somewhat lacking in instructions department in its English edition, let me tell you it is no better in Italian. I called on my Mother, who is an A1 seamstress and a native Italian speaker. She looked at the instructions and said “What?!” So Burda is just as opaque in other languages as it is in English! Good to know! In the end she just looked at the pattern pieces and said “do that..that..and that!”
The issue causing the headscratching was that the collar has an unusual draft (at least to me), in that there is a stand there, but the collar kind of wraps around it, so that you don’t have that classic shirt collar look at the front, but the collar is supported around the back. Quite ingenious. That’s what I like about Burda, especially in the BWOF days – a lot of patterns had little construction and design details that set them apart from other pattern designers. Gee, don’t get me started on burdastyle, but I miss those days of Burda (looks off into the distance, and sighs…).
Anyway, if you think of making this dress MAKE SURE YOU MARK THAT COLLAR STAND PROPERLY, as it is very easy to sew it in upside down. Yep, that’s what I did,even with specific Mum-sanctioned instructions. It took me a little while to figure out that’s what had happened, as it isn’t immediately obvious.
The pockets are an unusual rounded shape, placed over the side seam. I really like the look, but unfortunately with this fabric pattern the pocket shape kind of gets lost.
Cotton shirtdresses without a waist seam will always have a place in my summer wardrobe, and I’m pretty happy with this one. However, on looking at these photos, I’m wondering if the length is hovering in the frump zone. With this sort of style, it is easy to do if the length is just a bit off. It might need an inch off. Any thoughts? I hardly ever wear heels, so I need to take that into account.
Lastly, and for the first time on La Sartora, let me introduce to you the sheep! We have a small flock of sheep that we keep to keep the grass down on about 3 acres of our undulating block of land. Here I am being berated by one of the girls for not thinking to bring sheep food when approaching the fence line. Seriously, they didn’t shut up about it either! They were still bleating when I returned to the house and shut the door. Sheep! Sheesh!